INTRODUCTION

Early on the morning of the 7^th, I leave Riyadh for Dhahran Air Base on the Arabian (Persian) Gulf. This flight is what we call the "Desert Run," which brings supplies to the desert stations, carries person­nel, mail, etc. The aircraft is a C-47 nicknamed the "Goony Bird" or "Guts Air Lines," and over the hot turbulent air of the desert it travels as much vertically and laterally as it does forward.  No luxury here, we sit on bench seat on one side of the aircraft with cargo filling the remaining space. Thankfully, it’s only an hour and a half flight.

Having most of Sunday, Monday and Tuesday in Dhahran to wait before the flight to Je­rusalem, I have plenty of time to relax, take care of some busi­ness and run some errands for the fellows back in Riyadh.  I had time to do some skin diving in the Gulf - - - water so salty it is al­most impossible to sink, with underwater creatures and scenery that seemed to be from another world.

DAY 1

As the sun rises on the morning of the 10th (Wed.) we are air-born, this time in a C-54, a larger, four engine aircraft (with seats) — destination, Jerusalem. There are about 28 of us aboard for this tour, arranged by US Air Force Special Services.  Most are Air Force person­nel, including two families.  We fly over the barren desert, following Aramco's Tap Line (oil line to the Mediterranean) to Jordan, then over its capitol, Amman, ending our 1,025 mile flight at the Jeru­salem Airport north of the city.  There it was still late morning due to 3 hrs difference in time.

We are met by refreshingly cool breezes and our very cordial guide.  Special Services had arranged our tour through a local tour­ist agency, "Dakkak’s & Company," which very conveniently owns a curio and art shop in the old city. 

After clearing customs, we are ushered to several waiting new cars for the drive to our hotel, “The City Hotel," located conven­iently just north of the Damascus Gate to the "Old City."  The old city is entirely enclosed within the walls built by the Turks in 1571.  All of the city outside of these walls I shall refer to as "New Jerusalem."  This is where we stayed.

After a good lunch at the hotel we again board our fleet of cars for our first tour.  We drive around the north and east side of the wall, getting a panoramic view of the Mount of Olives, the Garden of Gethsemane, the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and the Church of All Nations, the latter located on the lower slopes of the Mount.  We will visit each of these places later in the tour.  Now on to the Jericho road and a dare-devilish drive through crowded, winding, village streets to the town of Bethany, 2 miles east of Jerusalem.  Here we stop at the church built over the site of the home of Mary and Martha.  On the hillside above the church and down some very steep steps, worn smooth by the thousands preceding us, we come to the Tomb of Lazarus (John 11:1-44).  It is a very dark, damp, arid, and dismal place and the comment was made by someone that Lazarus must have been very glad to have "come forth" when Jesus called him. (Incidentally, we are told that his body was later moved to Marseilles, France…? Some say he died finally on Cyprus.)

From Bethany we continue our fast and wild drive down narrow mountainous roads, past the spot where the Good Samaritan Inn once stood, on down to the city of Jericho, 27 miles east of Jerusalem. Here we stop at Elisha's Fountain (2 Kings 2:19-22). The water from these springs is used today to supply water for the surrounding area and for Jericho proper (supposedly the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world.)  This is a truly picturesque and sentimental spot.  The women are dressed in their very colorful native costumes.  They were not veiled, which is a striking after Saudi Arabia, and they are ga­thering water in large earthenware jars from the springs.  They balance the large, heavy jars on their heads and carry them back to the Palestinian refugee camps, from which they come.  There are several of these pitiful, crowded camps near Jericho and many around Jerusalem.  Near the fountain we see the American excavations of the old city of Jericho. The excavations have progressed to approximately 40 feet below the surface, uncovering a complete arch built in the time of the Crusaders, an ancient watch tower, and old sections of the wall that has been dated sometime before the 6th century. The excavation work is to be resumed next fall when it is cooler.  I am told that there was an issue of National Geo­graphic that had the story and pictures of these diggings (don’t know the date).  From this spot we can see the Mount of Temptation in the distance, a stark view of a high, barren, and rather rocky mountain, where near the top is located a secluded Greek monastery.

Continuing our tour, we drive through the fertile valley of Jericho and the beautiful citrus gardens — rows of banana, orange, papaya, and loquat trees, intermingled with groves of grape vines.  Many of them are loaded with the fruit for which Jericho is famous.  Our next stop is the famous River Jordan.  We are approx­imately at the spot where Jesus was baptized.  In a way, the river is a disappointment to us.  I have always thought of it as being a large river, but in actuality, it is never more than 10 feet deep and 100 feet wide, and it is far less than half that today.  Also, it is a drab, greenish color, but still it does have a calm reverent air about it.  From here we can see Mount Nebo in the distance to the East from where that Moses looked across the mountains into the Promised Land.

A few miles’ drive to the south and we are standing 1300 feet below sea level on the banks of the Dead Sea, the lowest spot on the earth.  It is a beautiful, massive body of water, deep blue in color, with mountains sloping high on the other side.  Close to the banks are many people swimming and floating in its salty water (27% salt).  As you know, it is impossible to sink in this water, and one can float on its surface.  A strange sight to behold!  As by this time it is getting late, we get back into the cars and start the long drive back up the mountains to Jerusalem, this time at an ob­viously slower rate of speed.

Back at the hotel we quickly shower and dress for din­ner.  Then, after a few moments of needed rest, we go into the old city to visit the markets and the shops.  Here, as in Saudi Arabia, most of the shops are open in the evening.  The narrow streets were active and crowded; the exotic shops eagerly invite business, especially that of the extravagant, money-fool­ish, American tourist.  There is no end to the variety of merchandise the shops have to offer:  souvenirs, antiques, religious items and an unlimited number of treasures from the countries of the Middle East and indeed, the whole world.  There are inlaid tables with mother-of-pearl, ivory, olive wood, exquisite brass work from Damascus, figurines made of olive wood, coffee pots, urns and trays of shiny brass, and copper, all finely-etched.  There are hanging lanterns, Crusader cross­es, and very cheap as well as very expensive items of jewelry.  As per usual, my finances can't afford the buying I would like.