Moloka'i Hawaii

We took our third trip to Molokai in July 2002. In going to Moloka'i we are looking for peace, quiet and rest. Moloka'i is perfect for this. There is almost no 'retail therapy' opportunities on the island (with the notable exception of the Kamakana Art Gallery and an artisan street fair every Saturday in Kaunakakai).

When you fly in the island is not immediately imposing. On our first trip we were warned not to let appearances from the air fool us. It appears arid, flat, and not terribly inviting. Once you get on the ground, things change significantly. There is the famous speed sign upon leaving the airport saying "Slow Down, This is Moloka'i." The highest speed limit on the entire island is 45 miles per hour, and there are no stop lights anywhere on the island. We recommend picking up a car from one of the chains at the airport; it is easier and the quality of the cars are better than other options we found.

When we met people they were invariably surprised to hear that this was our third visit. It seems some people 'do' all the islands coming to Moloka'i, but rarely returning. They are missing out, and that seems to be OK with most folks. This is not the place to come if you want a flower lei greeting or want to go to a luau or engage in a host of other tourist based activities. If you pay attention and watch the local bulletin boards, you will find local events that offer opportunities to enjoy and engage in local activities. The first time we visited, we went to a local Hula school fund raising dinner to send some of the students on a tour. This time we were able to enjoy a Japanese/Hawaiian Bon Dance. These events are by and for local folks, and they are usually inexpensive, informal, and welcoming of visitors.

Moloka'i is known as the 'friendly isle', it may also be fair to characterize it as the 'faithful isle.' One of the earliest experiences driving into Kaunakakai town from the airport is the number of churches along the main road. There is a wealth of beautiful small and old churches one right after the other.

We rented a nice 4Runner from Moloka'i Island Rentals (nice folks, highly recommend) and turned off the main highway at the Homelani Cemetery to get to the rain forest. The road is in pretty bad shape, but a sedan would make it to the waterfall overlook on a dry day. Further on, the road gets much worse with huge sinkholes that look large enough to swallow even the largest 4 wheel drive vehicle.

On the north side of the island down a decent dirt road is Mo'omomi Beach. This is an area that is largely used by locals. The snorkeling is usually pretty good, but it is more subject to weather and was lousy this time around. Walking further west along the coast are the dunes and some gorgeous deserted beaches. Almost no one goes there and during our entire afternoon walking there, we saw not another soul away from Mo'omomi. In the dunes some quite old and significant fossils were recently discovered.

We like staying on the West end of the island. The Kaluakoi resort is old, a bit shabby, and has most recently been scaled back with the golf and restaurant being shut down. Although this makes me concerned about their ability to stay in business, it certainly plays well to our desire for solitude and peace and quiet. Our lanai faces right out onto Papuhoku beach, and it was so quiet this time that during the course of an entire day we may have seen 10 people walk by. There were more wild turkeys running around than people.

The Japanese Bon Dance is a celebration of the dead. On Molokai it was celebrated by two taiko drumming schools that came in from the other islands, dancing, traditional singing, and a special ukulele concert by the young virtuoso Jake Shimakoburo. The setting was comfortable and laid back. Little keikis children were running back and forth and having a good time. For a buck you could buy a hotdog, a soda, or a cup of saimin soup.

A civic center was recently built and has garnered well deserved architectural awards for its design. It is a very nice governmental center with rooflines and construction that harkens to the historical design sensibilities and nuances.

If Kaunakakai can be said to have a heart, it seems that it would be the Friendly Market. This is the busiest locale and when you walk the aisles, you hear people chatting and meeting and parting in a friendly and easy fashion. It has the largest selection of foods and produce.

Down East Side is the best eating on Molaka'i. The Neighborhood Store N' Counter. They have daily specials and a full menu of take out food. The chicken teriyaki is great! The setting is comfortable and there are some picnic tables scattered around. Our favorite days were spent snorkeling at 20 mile beach and lunching at the Counter.

This is one of the easiest places to snorkel on the island and certainly our favorite. It is shallow, sheltered, and the current is always pushing you back in to the beach.

Moloka'i has a very long sheltering barrier reef along the South side of the island. The reef makes for some nice snorkeling, but is a little hard to reach. It seems best to rent a kayak and paddle out to the edge of the reef, drop in, and tow the kayak behind you. There is a strong current, so you have to be aware of where you are and where it is taking you, otherwise you may have a bit of a walk back to your car.